Відео

Please help me- I've byilt a dozen different sstcs featured in youtube videos (several iterations of each one) wirhout ever getting even one spark one time. I dont know what im doing wrong. This is so important to me and i have nowhere to turn for even advice.

Would just removing the ground pin (without isolating the chassis) on the AC input work? THANKS MUCH!!!

Ima big fan of these big fans!

i got one of those sort of its a a12b men from a german manufacture uses a MPC8245 and uses Vxworks 5.4

Have a nice day You made an interesting video The same unit was given to me for repair, the capacitance of the capacitors was greatly reduced, but on the board, which is standing vertically, the diode failed, the marking on the board “D2” case type TO-252/DPAK, the name was lost. There is no way to take another block Do you have the same block or information about what kind of diode it is?

How to break UA-cam's compression algo in one short!

You can watch the entire teardown video here: ua-cam.com/video/2TVYVU4zk34/v-deo.html

How do you made it ionizing in the air without the direct sparks? is there a setting?

Noic! This is possibly the galvanically isolated version.

How you do this??? what was the frequency you use to made it float like that?

Beautiful construction and PCB layout

Сколько преобразователю лет? Что это за старинный дизайн такой?

I doubted the 230/400V but is actually is. So what the hell runs on 400V single phase there or an odd combination of 230/400 like that? Since from neutral to each phase is a 120 phase shift, if it was 180 it would be 230/460V. Or do some house get fed like that to split the loads across two phases and save on wiring in a third and the loads are all 230V?

Very cool, thanks for sharing!

Wow, beautiful looking inverter ❤️👍👍👍👍

Hi, to be honest, i was pleasantly surprised when i saw that familar shape on the thumbnail ^^ I've been with Fronius for almost 10 years now, so the IG Plus line of inverters was already cancelled and replaced by the SnapINverter series when i joined, but i had my fair share of work with the components in the electronic manufacturing department, as it was sold with up to 20 years of warranty. The lower section of the inverter, that is missing with yours containes the AC and DC connection area and the system control board, as well as the display. 60Vdc are way to low, i would need to look at the datasheet again, but start up voltage should be around 250Vdc. Each power class uses the same board + inductor combination, it's numbers are varying, depending on the phase number and AC output power. There was a revision of the power board, you either have the older PINCI 1, or the more recent, backward compatible PINCI 2 board. The newer one can vary the power factor, as some DNO require a Q/(U) or Q/(P) control. If you want to make the INV operational again, i can send you the article number of the bottom section, you need a specific control board, called the IG brain (yeah, the pcb designers had the TV show (Pinci and the Brain) in mind 😅, when naming the boards), that has been programmed for a 2 power stage / 6kw output power inverter and the specific region. Ps: the conformal coating was dropped with the succeeding generation of inverters, as by then the housing was IP66 protected, so nothing stopping you there from salvaging some components! Best regards from Austria

Thanks! Seems guys who designed PCBs had so many revisions, and so boring development and debugging of this stuff, that they even have added nice pictures, to make life slightly happier. ) Very cool HW!

Nice build. Always think the p.c.b. designers are enjoying their work when they add art work. A team I worked with many years ago at Digital Corp. used to do this too.

😎👍

Ved du hvad de bruges til?

Carol of the Teslas

Can you tell me how did you open it?

Do you think its a good business model to repair power electronics? Like solar inverters and amps n whatnot? Should I make a product? Could probably make some nice stuff once i get my math right

Why do you hve so many igbts/fets/bjts? Whatever they are. Maybe even half bridge rectifiers but id be impressed if they all transistors. I was so envious when i saw ur title card lol. Bet u can make some cool stuff with all them. Id make an inverter and tesla coil to start and then a fat audio amp, and a fatter radio amp if they fast enough. God i love electronics. Wish i got into the good stuff earlier in life. Wish i had taken my meds then too but… lol

Why do you hve so many igbts/fets/bjts? Whatever they are. Maybe even half bridge rectifiers but id be impressed if they all transistors. I was so envious when i saw ur title card lol. Bet u can make some cool stuff with all them. Id make an inverter and tesla coil to start and then a fat audio amp, and a fatter radio amp if they fast enough. God i love electronics. Wish i got into the good stuff earlier in life. Wish i had taken my meds then too but… lol

Plzz brief the tower

How to shotrge clear this machine

chineeeezium plastic

Nice one 😁👍👍👍

You missed a few points about this UPS. 1: As you later realized, the big "choke" is a transformer, and it has 3 taps on the high voltage side. These taps are used for voltage correction, as this UPS is "line-interactive", so in case of voltage highs or lows, it uses the transformer as an auto-transformer to boost/buck the incoming AC, without using the inverter. 2: This UPS uses a clever patent held by APC for a long time, where the diodes in the MOSFETs are used as a bridge rectifier to charge the battery during normal operation, and when the UPS is running, it puts the whole circuit in reverse, using the H-bridge to generate ~24VAC for the transformer, resulting in 230v out. 3: The two small "chokes" is in fact also transformers, these are 230/24v AC transformers and they provide the power for all the relays and the control circuits. It seems like kind of a relic, but APC still uses these unregulated transformers in their newer UPSes even though you'd expect that job to be performed by a SMPS today.

I have several of these, the newer version with LCD screens. Very nice units with sinewave output, and adjustable protection from mains being too high ot too low. Got them free from a company that had them as extras sitting around for too long that the batteries where shot. They did not want to buy batteries but just new units instead. These were not even used and like brand new. Added two large marine batteries and they have worked great. Eventually want to use some of my 280AH LiFePO4 batteries, but like everything APC, no schematics and lots of proprietary. I have heaps of APC transfer switches, PDUs and other products. Some are easy to reverse trace the PCBs. I just have to find the MCUs voltage sensing input circuitry and then potentially a correcting circuit can be devised to adapt [safely] for LiFePO4 batteries. Anytime I see anything APC in recycling/rubbish, esp the older vintage stuff, I grab... The components they use are quality.

Fuse is in wrong location, it is the link. Got the 750VA version, and it needed new batteries, which are now external, using that connector to power it.

I wonder if that was deemed defective after someone hooked up the batteries wrong? Looks like it bit you a few times too! Hate when that happens.

Been thinking about getting one of these to use as an inverter.. you can get them very cheap but the postage cost as much as the UPS..

You can see the pictures or get involved in electronics yourself, from these links :) All pictures: kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/teardown/apc-smart-ups-1500va-teardown/ Discussion of the teardown: highvoltageforum.net/index.php?topic=2998.0

Also was curious if you had a video I'm not seeing in regaurds to the maxwell cap that failed? Seems pretty rare those things fail, even when you find 20 year old ones they often still have many thousands of discharges left at their full ratings, to which I'd never expect to see/hear about a terminal on one failing especially. I picked up a couple that are rated for 50KJ and I plan to basically never go over 25KJ so they're more/less last me 'indefinently' since they're pulse caps rated for dead-shorting. Kinda surprised/impressed to hear you had a maxwell cap fail, just never seen/heard of it myself unless someone did over-volting and had hundreds of shots in @ over-volted. Be curious to see more on what happend there!

That plate must have got hot!

I used one of these plus a phosphor screen to take pictures of potted equipment for years. Fixed a lot of stuff like HeNe power bricks and NV drivers ❤

Thanks to the new version of PowerChute I could see that my APC RS1000 is from November 2006. I took it out of the closet due to some very ugly voltage drops we had lately, and with new batteries, it works like it did in 2006. I wouldn't say that it is made so cheaply.

i feel brush motor much better because of the sound they make !

Had to sound like a gun shoot, awesome 👍👍

-1 pant 😂. Still nice experiments , also you could look into producing graphene with this method , just add carbon instead of whatever you are frying in the middle 😂👌

I have 2 of them

I think you were right in your initial idea that you get ~166uF by shorting across one element and then using the other two in parallel for DC. The reason why you get >100uF measuring between two terminals instead of 83 is because the other two elements are also in series with each other across the terminals, so that string is paralleled with the single element between the terminals. I think total capacitance of the series/parallel bank is ~830uF for ~2.6kJ energy at 2500V.

Shouldn’t peak DC voltage rating be ~1.4 times higher than AC RMS voltage not 2 times? Also that’s the 2 second test voltage. My guess after looking at those specs, is you start getting little breakdown points in the polypropylene insulation somewhere a bit over 1000VDC, which will gradually eat away at the capacitor.

Awesome - & good fun

Oh boy, reminds me of when I built 10mF 400V capacitor bank for DRSSTC and accidentally shorted the terminals with fully charged capacitors. Suffice to say, my ears were ringing for good half an hour.

A couple suggestions: 1. Hook up a lightbulb in series with a decent resistor across the capacitors, that is always connected. It'll take longer to charge, and a parasitic loss after disconnect, but a visual indicator whether there's charge in the bank, and a means of no charge accruing is a must. 2. Swap out the copper wire for aluminium bus bars. It's cheaper, more easily formed/machined for purpose, and due to the skin effect should allow higher peak currents.

PFC capacitors can take a lot of abuse. Used a few of these for a laser power supply that needed a fast pulse discharge. They can take 1800v net a piece. Charge the elements with plus and minus HV and the third one being neutral. ❤

Yes definitely beef up the wires for the capacitors themselves. Super awesome capacitor bank though! I would be a menace if I had that many capacitors!